La Vino Dolce

Archive for the ‘Madeira’ Category

February 21st, 2012 by Troy Stark

Sweet Wine is All the Rage

Latest News

In case you haven’t been paying attention, there’s been a recent surge in the amount of news being devoted to the topic of sweet wines. I guess I’m not the only person out there who believes sweet wines are poised for a comeback. Here are a few of the highlights:

  • In light of my post yesterday, I should mention Dave McIntyre over at the Washington Post published a small blip about Madeira a couple of weeks ago, together with some suggested wines. It seems he didn’t like the Blandy’s 5 Year Alvada as much as I did, only rating it 1.5 stars out of 3, but his tasting notes are accurate and in-line with my experience. He also posted an article earlier this month that begins with a lede I can fully support: “We don’t drink enough sweet wine.” Amen!
  • Bonny Wolf from National Public Radio explains “Moscato Madness” with a small article and an informative podcast. There’s been a nearly 200% growth in Moscato sales over the past two years, thanks in part to hip-hop songs extolling its virtues, but I like to think it’s becoming popular because it’s delicious.
  • The venerable New York Times has an interesting article about the battle over recently proposed “Cru” regulations in the Loire Valley. Pint-sized appellation Quarts-de-Chaume, which is renowned for making botrytis-affected Chenin Blanc, is the center of a contentious battle between Domaine des Baumard, one of its largest and most consistent producers, and a number of other vingerons. The battle lines have been drawn over production methods and vineyard management. It’s an interesting look into the back-room political and legal wrangling often caused by France’s AOC system. Read the rest of this entry »
February 20th, 2012 by Troy Stark

It’s Madeira, m’dear.

I have a confession. I’m not a “wine expert.” Yes, I read a lot of wine-related publications and I attend quite a few tastings, but an expert I am not. I mean, up until a year ago, I hadn’t even heard of Madeira. How can a self-proclaimed sweet wine lover go that long without ever encountering Madeira? Honestly, I have no idea. I must have been living on a ship endlessly sailing about the Atlantic…

That being said, I have since learned Madeira is a fortified wine, like Port, and has many of the same characteristics. It is made on a Portugese island bearing the same name, which sits approximately 1250 miles off the northwest coast of Africa. Though some Madeira can be fortified dry, the best versions usually contain a bit of residual sugar. Madeira begins its life much as Port does, meaning that distilled spirits are added to stop fermentation and to stabilize the wine.

At this point, however, Madeira undergoes a process Port does not. The wine is intentionally cooked and oxidized by the winemaker. The process for doing so varies based on the quality of the wine, but it turns the wine into something magical. Many of the wine’s initial fruit flavors and aromas are lost, replaced by rounded and harmonious notes of vanilla, tobacco, oak, coffee, caramel and raisin.

A Madeira Winery

Why would a winemaker intentionally cook his wine? As it turns out, in the early days of its production, Madeira was sold to merchants and sent out to sea in the hulls of their ships. Demand seemed to rise in those markets, like India, which were the farthest from Madeira. Apparently, the long, often hot, voyage at sea and the constant movement of the ocean transformed the wine into something different, better. Producers discovered this fact when a barrel of Madeira eventually made a round trip to India (or some other far-flung destination) and back. Eventually, the winemakers found a way to replicate at home the long (and costly) process of aging their wines at sea. Read the rest of this entry »